If you’re between sizes in a Balenciaga cotton chemisier dress, the safer pick is usually to size up. This style often relies on crisp cotton structure, a defined waist, and precise seaming—details that can feel restrictive if the dress is even slightly small in the shoulders, bust, or upper back. Sizing up also helps preserve the intended drape through the skirt and keeps the cut-out back and asymmetrical hem sitting where they’re meant to.
Choose the larger size if you’re fuller in the bust, have broader shoulders, or prefer a smoother fit through the ribcage and back. Cotton has less give than knit fabrics, so a little extra room can prevent pulling at buttons, gaping at the chest, or tightness when moving your arms. If you plan to wear a bra with more coverage, or want the dress to feel polished rather than “held,” sizing up is typically more comfortable.
Consider the smaller size only if you’re consistently on the smaller end of your in-between range and you want a sharper, more tailored silhouette. If your waist is notably smaller than your bust/hips and the chemisier cut already feels roomy on you in similar shirt-dress styles, sizing down can help avoid excess fabric and keep the waist placement looking intentional.
Focus on the areas that are hardest to alter: shoulders, upper back, and bust. If those zones feel even slightly tight, go up. It’s generally easier to refine a looser waist with a belt or light tailoring than to fix strain across the chest or a restrictive shoulder line.
For more detail on the dress’s design cues and how the cut-out back and asymmetrical hem influence fit, visit the full guide here: Balenciaga cotton chemisier dress guide.
It often reads close to true to size in the waist and hips, but the structured cotton can feel firmer up top. If you’re between sizes or sensitive to tightness in the shoulders or bust, sizing up is typically the easier fit.
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